Look What I got Today From IPP:)

[HybridKid]

;) Thanks Ray for your help and sponsorship. Now to get you that darn dashboard.:)
Installation Pics and Information to follow.

[GSedanMan]

Hey looks cool bro, nice bling bling,----

what are they? :p

[sexyray@ipp]

im glad you are happy, we are very excited about the project and will back you up on anything

[HybridKid]

Pictured left to right.

1- These are the IPP upper spring perch and bushings. Left is the front and right is the rear.
2- Same as above, different angle. We did not use these since we used the Ground Control Camber kits.
3- These are the special bushings made for us by Nemo at Rage Technologies.
4- IPP on the bottom and Nemo's on the top. The longer br*** looking one is for the rear.
5- These plates we made to fill the space between the knuckle and the IPP coilover. I just felt that if we torqued the bolts to provide a proper fit, it would stress the coilovers too much and stress crack with constant pounding from driving.

[HybridKid]

Again, per WarriorBob's instructions this gives you an idea on how the ***embly is supposed to be using the stock strut upper parts.

[HybridKid]

From WarriorBob's instructions, using the stock upper perch and mount you can see what he meant. The white ring you see is the bearing that he said for you to remove and sandwich between the IPP 'silver' upper spring perch and the stock upper strut mount. This means you do not reuse the stock upper spring perch.
REMEMBER TO USE SPRING COMPRESSION TOOLS TO REMOVE THE UPPER SPRING PERCH AND MOUNT!! SAFETY FIRST!!

[HybridKid]

We did not use the 'silver' upper spring perches that came with the IPP, since these are meant to be used with the stock upper mount. The Ground Control kit comes with upper spring perches that fit snug into the springs. Those are the 2 pictures on the right.

[HybridKid]

The br*** looking bushings are what comes with the IPP kit. The steel bushings were made by and available through Nemo at Rage Technologies. I recommend that you use the steel bushings when using camber kits like Ground Control to centre and provide better movement of the upper bearing from the camber kit.
I used 2 per corner or 8 in all as you will see from other pics. One above and one below the upper shock mount.

[HybridKid]

The taller strut is for the rear and notice that the cover is pulled over the shock shaft. And the 'silver' bushing instead of the washer below the lock nut. There is another one (silver bushing) just like it on the bottom holding the bearing.

Notice the space mentioned before that existed between the knuckle and the IPP lower mount.

[HybridKid]

Notice how I installed the provided pieces to make the brackets.

[HyBrIdSGrL]

Those look very nice, can't wait to see the outcome in a couple of weeks

[dsmlights]

wow woot woot damit lol marlon is riding in style ;)

[GSedanMan]

Hahaha, yeh, Marlon has a 'G' and an 'SRT'........It doesn't get much better than that.... :p :p


Can't wait to see the finished product. Should be a very intersting project. :)

[HybridKid]

Made some changes yesterday, flipped the upper mount plate on the Ground Control Camber plates. Figured that will need more adjustment for the alignment shop to the inside.
Here are some pictures and you will see compared with the first set what I mean.

[HybridKid]

Remember that these are using the Ground Control Camber kits. These measurements will give you approximately a 1" drop in the Front and 1.75" in the rear, when measured on a level surface, wheels and tires from the ground through the centre of the wheel to the wheel well edge.

The longer measurement is taken from where the upper strut mounts up to the strut tower.
Front is the images on the left, rear has the red wire in the pictures.

[HybridKid]

IPP Coilover Install.

Thanks to WarriorBob from SRTForums for providing the template for me to use for my install.

1. Measure the height of your car; I went from the ground to the bottom of the lip of the wheel wells. Since I was lowering the car too I thought that this was a good starting point. I used a grease pencil and recorded them above each wheel well.
2. Jack up the car and place on 4 jack stands keep the car level and give a good
distance to the ground to allow the lower control arms to drop down far enough
for clearance to get the struts out and in.
3. Remove the front and rear tires unbolt the front sway bar links from both driver and p***enger sides (this allows the lower control arm to drop down).
4. Place a floor jack under the lower control arm. Remove the front strut as described in the service manual (I like WarriorBob am not going to describe this as you should have the knowledge to do this part. If you don't, then you may want to have a friend or professional do the job).
5. With the front strut off the car dis***emble the strut (again as described in
the manual) don’t forget to use a spring compressor to remove to spring to be safe.
6. The next instruction #7 is for reuse of the stock upper mounts. Remember mine differs, because I used the Ground Control Camber kit.
7. You will reuse the upper strut mount (the piece with the 3 studs that bolts to
the car) now take the mount that has the white plastic bearing and carefully
remove that bearing. Do this by using 2 small screwdrivers under the bearing to
carefully pry up on the bearing....now be careful that you get the screwdriver
far enough under the bearing to get it off.....if you don’t get far enough under
the bearing you will pop the plastic piece off the bearing and all the bearings
will come out and the bearing is toast.....go slow and look to make sure you get
completely under the bearing to remove it.
8. Take the front IPP coilover and loosen all lock rings. Install the dust boot
over the coilover by pulling it down over the upper neck of the shaft. Then install the spring and the upper spring mounting put the included spacer over the strut shaft with the smaller side up. This is the br*** looking bushings you will see in my pics.
9. Now put the white bearing you removed form the stock mounting to the top of the upper spring mount (the chrome/silver looking piece that came with the IPP coilovers).
10. Next install the stock upper mounting plate (plate with 3 studs that
mounts to the body) put a washer and the supplied nut over the strut shaft and
tighten the nut. I did this with a wrench, you will feel it tighten and you don’t have to grab the strut shaft it will tighten down..........warning do not grab the shaft with vice grips to keep it from turning.
11. Some dimensions as a starting point to get a base height of the car (this should give a good starting height) set the height of the body to 13” inches from the top of the upper mounting plate to the lower strut body (where it screws into the bottom piece).
12. As far as the springs front and rear. I just snug them up against the upper mount, without compressing the springs. Didn’t have to touch them again.
13. Now install the strut as you would the stock ***embly. You will need
to install the gold brackets to hold the ABS wires just do some bending and
tweaking and you will get it on.
14. I torqued the lower bolts and nuts to 80 pounds feet. The manual recommended 65 pound feet I think.
15. Don’t forget to tighten the lock rings on the struts, upper and lower.
16. Repeat the process on the other front strut.
17. Reinstall the sway bar links (p***enger and drivers side).
18. Install the dampening adjuster knobs on the top of the strut and turn the adjuster full clockwise......now turn it counterclockwise 15 clicks.....this is a good
midpoint adjustment to start.
19. Before you leave the adjusters in place make sure they clear the hood when you close it.
20. Install the front tires (some info to make it easier, using only three lug nuts).
21. Now on to the rear.
22. Unbolt the rear sway bar end links and let the bar swing out of the way.
23. Unhook all ABS wires and such from the stock strut.
24. Now remove the rear strut as described in the manual (as with the front if you do not know how to do this or feel uncomfortable doing this either get a friend to help or take the car to a professional.
25. Some people have removed the rear calipers to get to the lower strut mounting bolts. I did also and torqued them to 45 pound feet per the manual; I may increase this later on if it proves to be too little. If you don’t have the tools remove the
rear caliper but don’t let it hang by the brake line, get a coat hanger and hang
the caliper to keep the stress off the brake line.
26. After you have the rear strut off remove the upper mount. Don’t forget to use a spring compressor.
27. As previously described for the front install the dust cover on the strut then the spring, then the upper spring mount supplied with the IPP's.
28. Like WarriorBob I did it differently here when mounting the IPP to the upper mount. I used the bushings made by Nemo and they fit perfectly in the Ground Control bearing. One reason for the movement is that the IPP shock shaft is slightly smaller than the stock shock’s.
29. WarriorBob’s Install: This is how I did my upper mount
install............I did not use the thin spacer (br*** looking tube) supplied with the rear coilovers, I purchased a box of washers that fit over the shaft of the strut
and I installed 5 washers between the IPP spring upper mount and the bottom of
the factory stock strut mounting, installed the upper stock factory mounting, I
then put 5 washers over the shaft (this spaced the nut up far enough so when you
tighten up the nut it will tighten down the factory upper mount to the IPP upper
mount and tight to the strut..................if you do not use washers to take
up the space you will feel the factory upper mount is very loose and flops
around when the nut is tightened down. I wanted the mounting to be good and
solid and tight, the washer between the IPP upper mount and the lower of the
factory mount are there to take up the pocket that it in the factory mount (to
allow the 2 mounts to mate flush) and the 5 washers used on the strut shaft
between the factory upper mount and the nut is to take up the unthreaded part of
the shaft so the nut tightens up the factory mounting to the IPP mounting and
just does not bottom out on the strut shaft.
30. Now you are ready to set some preliminary heights for the struts. As in the front set the body length from the top of the strut to the top of the lower coilover piece (where the strut screws into the lower) at 14” inches.
31. Snug the spring up against the upper mount without compressing the springs. Just like the front. This will give a good starting point to adjust the height where you like it.
32. Install the strut as you would install the factory strut.
33. Install the dampening knob on the top of the strut and turn full clockwise then
turn back counterclockwise 15 turns........again as in the front this is a good
starting point.
34. Now repeat process for the other rear strut and when finished reinstall
the rear sway bar (I recommend that at this time you install the Prothane rear
swaybar links that are shorter) (I used links that are 1 5/8” but measure for your application) now install all the tires and place the car on the ground.
35. Carefully, to make sure that it is not too low to clear the jacks etc.
36. Remember to tighten the 3 lug nuts down and I went for a short slow drive down the street to make sure there is no noise or clunking. This allows the system to settle a little, although it will settle more as time goes on.

Height Adjustment:

Take measurements of the car from the ground to the bottom of the wheel well (same method as used to take the initial measurements). Where the car sits is up to you, I have my car sitting on the front 25.5” inches from ground to lip of wheel well and the rear 26.25” inches from ground to lip of wheel well. But set you height where you want it and remember that your wheels and tires affect this as well.
With this initial set up of the coilovers is gives the springs close to 80% of
their travel (notice that the spring is not really tightened up and this allows
full travel of the spring. Opposed to the spring really tight and not
much distance between coils which would give a super rough ride and decrease
spring travel and cause coil bind).
Adjust the height by raising or lowering the threaded portion of the strut into the body of the lower mount. Lock the upper 2 lock rings together (under the spring) and loosen the lower lock ring (on body) and use the supplied tool to spin the upper portion of the strut to move it up or down (I used a tape measure and measured between the lower spring perch and the part where the shock screws into the lower mount. Doing this will take several times to get the car level and the height where you want it. A lot of up and down and tires off and on, but it is worth it!!!
After you get the height set where you want it make sure you have all the lock rings tight and you are done!!!!
You definitely will need an alignment I guarantee it. But drive the car some around the neighborhood and put a few miles on it to let the springs settle in. They may pop groan bad and clang until they settle in. Give it some time and they will quiet down.
Take the car to the alignment shop and have her aligned. The specs you have her set to are up to you. You can go factory or go with a performance (autocross) alignment, but that is up to you.

Dampening Adjustment:

After the install and alignment, drive and enjoy your new ride and start
playing with the dampening adjustment to get the car to the "FEEL" that you like.

Just for some info, I set my alignment at this. Front camber= -1.5, Toe in 1/16. Rear camber= -.5, Toe 0 (zero) but again set you alignment how you feel comfortable.

Thanks Warriorbob.

[CenturyI]

I've never seen the IPP coilovers before. But they look extremely nice. Nice install instructions you did also.

[sexyray@ipp]

ipp coilovers are one of the best bangs for the buck.

lightweight strut body
dul height adjustability
32 dampening adjustments with clicks

[robino]

how much for the IPP's like you have pictured? camber plates and all..

[HybridKid]

how much for the IPP's like you have pictured? camber plates and all..
Approximate MSRP on everything is about $1,700 for everything. The camber plates cost more than you or I would think, but worth the money once Ground Control revises the rear upper mount for the SRT-4.

[robino]

WOW, not cheap at all...

how do they compare to the Mopar S3 coilovers?
those seem to be a lot less money from the looks of it.

are the camber kits/ground control kits necesary immed. or can I get those later on down the line...?
i'm not looking to compete/race at the track, so is it a necessity?
I'd be looking at keeping my 0 degree camber setup for the 1/4 mile anyway.

just want something that will sit lower without sacrificing too much ride quality.
what are my options for coil overs? Teins? Who makes the cheapest adjustable coilover?

[FastAttack]

WOW, not cheap at all...

how do they compare to the Mopar S3 coilovers?
those seem to be a lot less money from the looks of it.

are the camber kits/ground control kits necesary immed. or can I get those later on down the line...?
i'm not looking to compete/race at the track, so is it a necessity?
I'd be looking at keeping my 0 degree camber setup for the 1/4 mile anyway.

just want something that will sit lower without sacrificing too much ride quality.
what are my options for coil overs? Teins? Who makes the cheapest adjustable coilover?No Stage 3 coilovers are more expensive than the IPP's.
Retail from Modern Performance the Stage 3 are $1349.99

While the IPP's are $1039.00

these are without the camber kit from ground control.

Its not necessary to have the camber control, and yes you can purchase it down the line. the ground control kit is close $500 alone but your not required to have them at all.. If wanted you can add this down the road.

As far as comparison, the IPP's are a lot lighter and they have mod adjustments over the stage 3 coilovers. And you got more spring rates to choose from.

But from what your going to use I would use the softest spring rates on the IPP's

The cheapest by far is the IPP's your other options are Tiens and thats about it.

Myself I am going to be using the IPP's on my car, as their quality and products are great, plus as you noticed we are running this on the project car which is slated to be a monster of a car ;) .

Ray from IPP is here and he can answer most of your questions.

[new2neons]

I would like to lift my 98 neon 1" - 2" - just too low for me to get out of easily.

How can I do it? Can it be done? If so - cost? Could I make spacers to fit on the top of my struts and do it that way?:yup:

[HybridKid]

With coilovers you can adjust the height up or down. I used IPP but there are several available now compared to before, when the stage 3s were not even out yet. I like the Tein's but they are a little more in price.
You could make spacers as a less costly alternative but I am unsure how it will affect your suspension travel, geometry etc.

I would like to lift my 98 neon 1" - 2" - just too low for me to get out of easily.

How can I do it? Can it be done? If so - cost? Could I make spacers to fit on the top of my struts and do it that way?:yup: